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Filaka Island Group Trip

The group visited the Failaka Island in October 2024. The guide picked up the group at 9:30 from the hotel and drove them to the marina port to board a private boat to the island, located 20 km off the coast of Kuwait City. For thousands of years the island has been a strategic prize to control the lucrative trade that passed up and down the Arabian Gulf. Prior to the 1990 Iraqi Invasion, the island was thriving and was a popular holiday destination. But during the occupation, the Iraqis expelling all its residents to the mainland. They then mined the beaches and used the island's facilities and buildings for target practice. In 1991, the allied forces forced the Iraqi army forces occupying the island to surrender.

During the visit, the group first saw a military equipment graveyard, with Soviet tanks, APCs, artilleries, military trucks and vehicles left behind by Saddam’s military. The group then saw something completely different, a camel farm. It is a collection of the royal family’s camels because of the specific brand that they have on their back leg. The group also saw the bullet-riddled building of the National Bank (Bank Al Watani), still standing despite the extensive damage, visited the Heritage Village and the museum. Nearby, there are some archaeological sites on the island, but they are technically still under archaeological excavation, so they are not open to the public.

After a fantastic lunch at the "Wanasa Beach" resort, the group visited the abandoned village before they sailed back to Kuwait City.

A Full Day in Kuwait City

The group started the day at the iconic Kuwait Towers, towering over the city. The panoramic views from the observation deck offer a stunning glimpse of the city's skyline and the surrounding Arabian Gulf. They were the last group in the larger Kuwait Water Towers system of 34 towers (31 of them looking like blue and white mushrooms) that was built in the 1970s to provide a modern water-supply system for Kuwait City. These towers have together a capacity of 102,000 cubic meters of water, enough to supply the city for 1.5 year. Next, the guide drove them to the magnificent Grand Mosque, a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. It was inaugurated in 1986 and can accommodate up to 10,000 men in the main prayer hall, and up to 950 women in the separate hall for women. The intricate details and serene atmosphere were truly awe-inspiring. While we were there, the guide also mentioned that Kuwait City has a very high density of mosques, because back in times each group of houses had one.

As the National Museum was closed for maintenance, the journey continued to Al Suda House, a historical Kuwaiti mansion that has been beautifully preserved. The group saw the traditional courtyards and learned about the daily life of the Bedouins and their ethnic handicrafts, Sadu weaving, which is an embroidery form in geometrical shapes hand woven by Bedouin people. From there, the group headed to the massive Fish Market, a sensory overload of fresh seafood! The guide then took the group along the Causeway so that they could enjoy a panoramic view of the city's skyline. The causeway spans the Bay of Kuwait and was built between 2013 and 2019 under China's Belt and Road Initiative.

Following a quick lunch, a look at the Al-Watan Sweets shop and a kunefe stop, the group visited the Ahmad Al Jaber Oil & Gas Exhibition, a showcase of Kuwait's oil and gas history. The group also saw a movie about the Kuwaiti oil fires caused by the Iraqi military in 1991, when they set fire to more than 600 oil wells while retreating from the country. The fires were started in January and February 1991, and the first oil well fires were extinguished in early April 1991, with the last well capped on November 6, 1991. The final stop was the Al-Qurain Martyrs House, a poignant memorial dedicated to a cell of young Kuwaitis who tried to resist Iraqi arrest on 24th February 1991, which led to a fierce battle. It was a day filled with cultural experiences, historical insights, and stunning views! The group ended it with a seafood dinner and a stroll in the souk.

The Sadu House "The Key to Kuwaiti Identity"

What is the Museum?

The galleries are spread throughout a beautiful traditional Kuwaiti house (Beit Al-Sadu) in the city. As you stand at the entrance to the building, it is immediately obvious that this is a well organised, professionally run establishment. The displays consist of a wide variety of beautifully crafted Bedouin textiles and the equipment used to make them.

Unlike the National Museum, there are explanations aplenty, which include both technical commentaries and explanations of how the items were utilised. There is a lot of information about the dyes, spindles, looms that the Bedouins used. The museum is focussed, and the displays are clear about how this tradecraft fits into Kuwaiti history.

The layout of the museum is a little confusing but that is only due to the nature of the house’s architecture. There is a room focusing on Bisht (cloak) production and embroidery, rooms that focus on various weaving techniques and structures and rooms that concentrate on equipment.

The Art of Al-Sadu: Weaving the Bedouin Legacy

Al-Sadu is the Bedouin term for weaving and for the loom. Weaving was the main expression of Bedouin art and the museum attributes an almost mythical, poetic value to the work. To the Bedouins, there were two sides to the industry. Weavers were needed to create functional items (tents, tent dividers, bags and rugs) with different techniques used for different items, but they also were essentially artists.

In what was otherwise a simple and practical lifestyle, weavers provided luxury. They created aesthetically beautiful patterns that were important to tribal identity. The patterns (executed from memory) in the fabric identify desert animals and plants.

They reflect symmetry, rhythm and harmony. Sadu House is committed to understanding and documenting the meanings behind these patterns. The weavers would use horse, camel, sheep and goat hair and until recently all the dyes used were from natural plants found in the desert.

Overall visitor experience

The museum is classy, clean and smart. There are enough exhibits to maintain the visitor’s interest but not so many that the intrinsic value is lost. The significance and purpose of every piece (both textiles and tools of the trade) is made very clear. There is also a small library and a video room.

Whilst the film is a little outdated, it remains a very informative explanation of the aims of Sadu House and the importance of weaving to Kuwait. Near the entrance there is a gift shop where you can purchase traditional works, with the proceeds going to the weavers who are part of the co-operative. Opposite this, a small cafe offers coffee and cake.

These basic customer amenities make for a well-rounded visit but there could perhaps be a guide or a reception desk to welcome you on arrival. Overall the museum would interest both textile enthusiasts and the more casual visitor.

What does it say about Kuwaiti national identity?

As important as textiles and the processes of weaving were to Kuwait’s past, in themselves they cannot represent Kuwait as a nation. However, the way this museum preserves Bedouin traditions and teaches about weaving as an art form encourages the visitor to engage with their past.

It shows how hard work and skill were important aspects of life as a Bedouin, how people took pride in their work and how much meaning they attributed to everyday items such as clothing. The museums acceptance of change is refreshing; it shows that modernisation does not have to be a bad thing- tradition and heritage can find an important niche in modern urbanised society.

The museum sends a very clear message: that Kuwait has a rich cultural past hidden in the Bedouin way of life.

A visit to Kuwait’s Grand Mosque

One of the highlights of the tourist trail in Kuwait is the Grand Mosque, a massive structure in the central city which can hold 10,000 men on the main floor and nearly 1,000 women in the women’s hall. It is easily the most beautiful building you can visit in Kuwait. The mosque is open to visitors for limited hours per week, primarily 9-11am and 4-6 pm on Sundays through Thursdays.

The Grand Mosque sits on a 45,000 square meter plot of land, just across from Al-Seif Palace, a complex dating back to the 19th century as a home for the Kuwaiti government. In arial views, you can see the Arabian Sea glittering in the near distance. The building itself is 20,000 square meters and is covered in light-colored stone.

We were warmly greeted and invited to enter a small waiting area, where a Muslim tour guide offered to give us a tour in just a few minutes. My friend and I were directed to a robe closet in the back, where another woman dressed us in abayas (full robes) with head scarves pre-attached, which she arranged over our hair. (Men who arrive in shorts are given wraps for their legs.)

The waiting room was outfitted with benches covered in red fabric woven in traditional patterns and overlooked a lush garden. Tea, coffee and water were all on offer. Our guide led us and a small group of other Western tourists out through an open courtyard across shiny cream-colored tiles and into a covered portico just outside another entrance.

We all removed our shoes and placed them in cubbies, a process followed at every mosque I’ve visited. It’s hygienic, given that prayers are conducted on the floor and include placing your forehead on the ground.

We entered the prayer hall into a surreal environment. The interior is immense, carpeted entirely with a richly patterned royal blue carpet with a golden pattern overlay. Two-thirds of the soaring walls are marble and stone, interspersed with blue, green and gold tiled mosaics and ornately carved panels of wood, with the top third painted royal blue and adorned with gold and white calligraphy. Massive 22-meter-high marble pillars hold up a ceiling which cascades out in golden waves like the petals of a rose, with a domed center whose tip is 43 meters above the ground. Also dripping from the ceiling are four immense chandeliers. Natural light comes in through 144 high windows. To say the experience is a little overwhelming is an understatement.

Our guide explained that construction on the mosque began in 1979 and was completed in 1986. The mosque cost roughly $46 million to build. It was an international effort, with Moroccan mosaics, German chandeliers, teakwood doors from India, French stained glass and Italian marble. She gave us plenty of time to take it all in and to engage in futile attempts to capture its opulence using our cell phone cameras. She walked us through to a few areas, sharing how the niches in the walls carried sound for religious teachers and could be used traditionally for small student groups. The main niche is for the Iman and allows for acoustics which could send his voice throughout the hall. Most Kuwaitis pray in local neighborhood mosques, but the Grand Mosque is popular for major religious observances, such as Ramadan.

After the prayer hall, our guide invited us to follow her to a small museum on site. She led us across another courtyard and through another door. On the second floor, we entered into an elegant, marbled room whose walls were lined with framed calligraphy of Quran verses. In the center of the room there is a replica of the oldest Quran in the world. (The original was written during the 6th century and is now in Istanbul.) We were given plenty of time to admire the Arabic framed on the walls. It is a language which lends itself to display and gives calligraphers much license to interpret the letters to artistic effect. Our Grand Mosque tour ended with a return to the reception room, where my friend and I stepped back into the changing room and removed our abayas.

The Complete Guide to Souk Al-Mubarakiya

What is Souk Al- Mubarakiya?

Souk Al- Mubarakiya in Kuwait City is one of the oldest souks in Kuwait. Positioned between Abdullah Al-Mubarak, Abdullah Al-Salem and Palestine Streets, the Souk was the centre of trade prior to the discovery of oil, and it retains an unmistakable charm that preserves Kuwait’s past beautifully. Reflecting the country’s rich heritage and culture, the stalls boast everything from herbs, spices and apothecary goods to clothes and accessories.

Enjoy The Markets

Explore the markets and enjoy various sights, sounds and smells, transporting you back to ancient Kuwait, where life was simpler. Over 200 years ago, a marketplace was created in the Al- Mubarakiya area as a platform for vendors to showcase their produce in a non-commercial setting. The market soon became a cultural hub, catering to the needs of every visitor, whether for the weekly grocery shop or an outing with friends. With Sheikh Mubarak Al Kabeer’s Kiosk – a small garden pavilion – in the middle of it all, people were given direct access to their leader in order to voice their wishes and concerns. Soon afterwards, a diwaniya (reception hall for business discussions) was set up, dubbed The Founding Fathers’ commune. To this day, the diwaniya is a place for the country’s elders to meet and discuss everything from social issues to the coming elections.

Revitalizing the Souk

Following the Iraqi invasion of 1990, the infrastructure of the Souk was heavily damaged, and necessary renovations were made. The renovations retain the traditional elements characteristic of the commercial trade centre, while also injecting the marketplace with a hint of modernity in the form of light displays and play areas for children. Given the warm summers in Kuwait, the Souk was originally planned and built to provide visitors with plenty of shaded areas.

Shopping at the Souk

If you love to haggle, then Souk Al- Mubarakiya is your go-to place. Here, you can browse stalls selling Arabic antiques, traditional dresses and Persian carpets. If you are looking for gifts to take home, then look out for perfumes, handmade local crafts, scarves, dresses, jewellery and more. You’ll also find dates, spices, honey and scented oils, as well as shops specialising in eye-catching gold and silver. While discussing the price of a product, be firm, but not impolite. Similar products are available in multiple shops so you can always compare the price and quality before purchasing. Finally, don’t forget to try some of the delicious traditional Arabic coffee.

Kuwait Towers "The Story"

This group of towers was given the name "Kuwait Towers" which translates to Arabic as Abraj AI-Kuwait, and since its opening on February 26th1977, has been regarded as a symbol of national identity.Abraj Al-Kuwait will be nominated as a single monument. It is to be noted that this building is considered to be part of a nation-wide network of infrastructural water supply and reservoirs which consist of 31 more water towers (known as the mushroom towers) that are strategically distributed in groups around the country, and are connected to the distribution grid of the two already built distillation seawater plants.

This ambitious national project was part of the country's large scale modernization process undergoing since the first shipment of oil in 1946, and essential to ensure an effective system of water distribution to a growing population, until then supplied by tank trucks. Due to its prominent location at the north east corner of the metropolitan area, overlooking Kuwait bay and the Arabian Gulf, special attention was given to this group of towers; therefore, the architectural work was awarded to architect Malene Bjorn. Abraj Al-Kuwait is located on the waterfront on a small peninsula in the northern part of Kuwait City.

Such important location made H.H. the Amir of Kuwait Sheikh Jaber Al-Ahmed Al-Sabah request for an exclusive design that could make a difference in the bay’s skyline. In order to achieve the challenge of reconciling the water reservoir function with a pleasant design. Accordingly, VBB asked for the collaboration of the Bjorn & Bjorn Design AB led by the Danish architect Malene Bjorn in 1967.

This group of towers became a composition of three spikes of different heights set out of the points of a triangle inside the circular perimeter of a green landscape base, combining a program to store 9000 cubic metres of water with a component of public facilities. The tallest of the three towers with the height of 185m (at the time considered to be the highest in the Middle East) situates two spheres designed for public use.

The largest sphere divided into two halves, the lower half is a water reservoir of 4500 cubic meters, while the upper half consist of an open-plan restaurant connected to other level by a smooth curved stairway that leads to a banquet hall with an interior garden. The second sphere, known as the viewing sphere, with two interior levels, is mostly covered by aluminium trusses fitted with triangular glass pieces which allow a full view of the city, sea and desert at 120m height with a 360° rotating platform.

The second tower has only one sphere with an exclusive function of water reservation. The third and smallest tower 100 meters tall in the form of an elegant white needle is purely sculptural and holds a floodlight system that illuminates the other two towers. Constructed of concrete, in pure white, the final image get closes to a sculptural object ornamented by forty-one thousand enamelled steel disks in shades of blue, green, and grey, cladding the spheres, like the mosaic Islamic patterns.

The tip of each tower, covered with stainless steel and acts as a lightning arrestor, also suggest the mosque minarets, as the spheres can be associated with domes. This Islamic symbolism together with the value of fresh water in such an arid country, allowed for a wider acceptance of this monumental structure as a national symbol.

Abraj Al-Kuwait is a unique and remarkable way of transforming pure engineering into pure architecture, between western technology and Islamic culture, contemporary requirements and ancient traditions, into a highly creative building.

Flamingos Watching in Kuwait City

Large flocks of great flamingos flocked to the shores of Kuwait, forming a natural painting that radiates beauty as they enjoy the warm weather that characterizes Kuwait these days and is suitable for one of the stages of the annual migration journey. The number of flamingos spotted on the shores of Kuwait is more than three thousand, as they visit the country in the winter season (October of every year), and their migration begins during the spring season in May of each year.

I went out to Sulaibikhat Beach in the south of Kuwait Bay, just outside the city and on the way to the birding hotspot of Al Jahra. This was a slightly unattractive, scrub-covered beach backed by a thickly tree-lined road. The tide was all the way out exposing a large extent of mud and abundant Mudskippers. The most obvious birds were Greater Flamingos, 483 of which I counted in a single scan. Some were close in and many more in the distance. Later in the afternoon, when the tide had risen, their numbers were in the thousands all the way around the tide line and stretching off into the distance towards the city.

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